So far on my journey I had received a few punctures already. They were mostly pinch flats I got on descents when heading down hill and hitting one of the catseyes (the reflectors in the road) at high speed. By the time I got to Hilo I didn’t have any fresh tubes left, just punctured ones with a flat kit. My mistake on Day 3 was to not head to a bike shop in Hilo and grab some more, or repair the ones I had before heading out. Although a mistake it did make this the most adventurous day.
The start of the day was sunny and fresh and the ride out of Hilo to the north is very scenic. Although you’re on a highway that isn’t the smoothest there are intermittent views of the ocean and on some of the bridges the views are great and depending on the swell you might get to watch some of the surfers in the distance.
As you start climbing out of Hilo you’ll get to a fork at Papaikou with a scene giving you the option to take the scenic route. I decided to take it and at first was underwhelmed as the roads weren’t well paved, were very windy and you’re surrounded by huge trees (I was a bit tree’d out by this point), but you are directed to the coast again and you can choose to make a stop at a beach. It would be a pretty early stop if you choose the same schedule as me however.
As you approach the highway again there is a cool spot called What’s Shakin. It’s a great place to grab a healthy smoothie and a sugary snack. There aren’t many stops of this quality so take advantage of it so that you don’t get too bored with the supplies you carry.
At this point all was well and I continued on my way. At mile 18 I hit a rock that had fallen onto the road. There is debris along the side of the roads from broken branches, rocks, etc and depending on traffic you have to decide whether to block traffic or navigate the obstacle course on the shoulder. It’s not that bad but if your mind wonders like mine you can hit something.
On the side of the road I managed to go through my entire remaining patch kits trying to get a working tube again. I had got going again with the tube above but after a few bumps the patch broke. I then started getting that dreaded sense of fear when you only have 2 patches left and a long way of nothingness to ride across to get to the next bike shop. I lost one patch on this tube again, and the last patch on a tube with a large puncture. Lots of Fs and Cs later I picked myself off the floor and debated my options.
I was in an area with signal but didn’t want to get my friend Mike to drive across the island to come get me. One because it would have been a real pain for him (like 4 hours of driving total) and I would probably have abandoned the days riding. I lined him up as a backup and then messaged the local cycling group’s Facebook page looking for help. Then I started walking towards the next town, Honokaa. There is no bike shop there, the next stop is in Waimea. I think there are only 3 towns with bike shops: Kailua-Kona, Hilo and Waimea.
After a bit of walking with my thumb out a nice Hawaiian dude pulled over and offered me a lift to Honokaa. He saw the ukulele and figured I wasn’t such a bad guy. On the ride we got to talking about his pretty extreme political views and how he had never left the island except for a couple occasions when he was incarcerated and transferred to the mainland to serve his sentence. I decided not to ask him what he had done. That’s not to say he wasn’t a really nice guy, he was, I just spent the entire ride to Honokaa asking myself what he had done. He took down the bike off the back of the truck for me and I left him some gas money on the passenger seat. He hadn’t wanted any money but I figured you should do things like this to show gratitude and pay it forward to the next person stuck on the side of the road.
Once in Honokaa I had a burger and fries after realising that Honokaa didn’t have a bike shop. Crap, back to square 1. I confirmed the next shop was in Waimea, a place called Mountain Road Cycles. I gave them a call to check they had road bike parts as the name confused me, I didn’t know if they sold mountain bikes or road bikes for mountainous areas. It turns out they are a general bike shop and the guy that owns it is really great. I couldn’t get a taxi in Honokaa (they don’t have a taxi service per se) and the bike shop owner gave me some tips about how to hitch a ride: look desperate. At this point my girlfriend Lindsey called me in a semi-panic. I hadn’t let her know my predicament and also she saw was a semi-cryptic message on the Hawaii Cycling Club facebook page. She was back on the mainland at a wedding so couldn’t help from there. After allaying her fears I got to work. I walked out of town and then starting walking with my thumb out. I walked for 15 minutes and not one person stopped to ask. So then I went nuclear: took the front wheel off and put the bike on my right shoulder and put my wrist through the front wheel and stuck my thumb up over it. I occasionally turned around to give despairing looks at the passers and within 2 minutes a nice family with a pick-up truck did a U turn to come pick me up again.
They dropped me off at the bike shop and the dude (I forget his name now) was nice enough to change my tube for me, as well as teach me the right way to put my particular brand of tire on the rim (I had the tread facing the wrong way). The bike shop isn’t visible from the main road but is hidden behind Big Island Brewhaus. MATT (that’s his name) was really knowledgeable and we got to talking about pro cycling for a bit. There was some cool bikes on the walls (a bamboo bike, a lovely wooden bike among others). Unfortunately the other photos didn’t come out very well.
After some tacos at Brewhaus I made my way back in the direction I had come from to get to my night’s lodgings. Matt from the bike shop had given me directions: go down the hill and turn right onto Mud Lane until you get to Honokaa. I got to the mudlane intersection and the right turn led up the hill and the left turn led down the hill. Despite remembering that Matt had definitely said turn right I figured I knew better because Honokaa was at a lower elevation and the left turn went downhill. I confirmed this on Google maps cycling directions (STILL IN ITS BETA!) and headed down the most stunning road I had ever seen. The pavement was pristene, tree lined and no traffic. I plummeted down quickly.
Gradually the smooth pavement gave way for packed gravel, which gave way to packed gravel with large pot holes, which gave way to just a trail with large rocks. The climb back up would have been a pain and at this point I only had an hour or so of daylight left.
I was eagerly awaiting the next junction where google maps was telling me to turn left. I figured that must have been a main road. When I got there I found the scene below. Google maps was trying to tell me to head straight into that.
Poop. What a day. I turned right instead and found beloved pavement. I thanked my bike for behaving so far, and not flatting despite the ridiculous terrain. I got back to the main road and then resumed my journey to my evening’s lodgings which is in the Waipio valley. It’s a bit of a detour if you’re trying to save time going around the island so I would recommended skipping it and staying in Waimea or Honokaa. The exception to that is if you’re willing to spend a full day here and do a hike into the heart of the Waipio valley. My lodgings were pretty basic and there were lots more bees/insects/cockroaches than average due to the open nature of the shared living space. I won’t recommend that one here either! This didn’t really bother me as I was just glad to have gotten there. The final 5-10 miles of my ride there was starting to get dark, my battery was running very low, and then I decided to drop it while descending a hill at 25-30mph. I had another dread moment because I hadn’t memorised the address, but thankfully I had only broken the screen and the phone was still functioning.
Looking back, it was a pretty awesome day!